Ukraine

Ukraine’s most famous port city is Odesa, which is situated on the north coast of the Black Sea.  It was founded in 1794 by Russian Empress Catherine the Great and today is a leading center of culture, trade and tourism. Its early successful development is attributed to Frenchman Duc de Richelieu, who served as the city’s governor between 1803 and 1814. 

As a free port, Odesa attracted many nationalities. Mark Twain visited Odesa in 1867 and wrote: “I have not felt so much at home for a long time as I did when I… stood in Odessa for the first time.”  When in Odesa be sure to climb the 142-meter Potemkin staircase, an entrance to the city from the direction of the sea; and take a stroll along Derybasivska Street, a lively pedestrian walkway named after the city’s first mayor. A performance of the highly-respected Odesa Philharmonic Orchestra conducted by American Hobart Earle should also be on your agenda.

If Ukraine has a city that can naturally bear the title of “Gateway to the West” it is certainly Lviv – not only due to its physical proximity to neighboring countries of the European Union (it’s only about 70 kilometers from the border with Poland) but also because it was part of the Austrian Hapsburg Empire from 1772 to 1918.   Lviv also spent several centuries under Polish rule. 

These Western influences have left an indelible mark on Lviv’s architecture, culture and cuisine. The central “old town” part of the city is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and nearly every weekend a festival is held here. Nestled among and within these historic buildings are dozens of delightful cafes and restaurants.  Yuriy Kulchytsky, a native son of the Lviv region, is considered by many to be the progenitor of Viennese coffee culture, establishing the first coffeehouse in that city in 1683. Today Lviv is a leading center of higher education and of Ukraine’s IT industry.

Ivano-Frankivsk is one of Ukraine’s most pleasant major cities with architecturally attractive, cafe-lined and pedestrian-friendly streets. It’s a popular launch point for excursions to the magical and mystical Carpathian Mountains. 

The people inhabiting this mountain region are called Hutsuls and are known for their colorful folk art, including embroidered clothing, blankets (kylyms), Easter eggs (pysanky), pottery, wood carvings and leatherwork.  These beautiful crafts can be found in the souvenir shops of Ivano-Frankivsk including within the Fortress Gallery “Bastion,” constructed around the remains of the city’s ancient defensive wall.  Ivano-Frankivsk, which is a sister city of Arlington, Virginia, is also known for its annual Blacksmith Festival and the city is adorned with many mesmerizing metal sculptures. The internationally-acclaimed film Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors (1965) features a rich portrayal of Hutsul culture.